It’s time to pack up the board shorts for a little while. Sure, if you’re heading to Hawaii, live somewhere warm, or just like to wear them around the house (good for you), you can get some extended miles out of them. But for those that live in the general vicinity of IPD HQ (Costa Mesa, CA), the temps have officially dropped. Even the late-season December south swell couldn’t save us. The water has been cold for a while now.
When most people think of Southern California, they envision sunny skies, warm waters, and idyllic beach days. It’s a place that conjures up images of year-round surfing in perfect conditions, with surfers donning board shorts and bikinis, even in the middle of winter. However, as the season shifts and temperatures drop, Southern California offers a different side of surfing—one that brings both challenge and reward to those willing to embrace the cold. Winter surfing in Southern California is a unique and invigorating experience, offering some of the best swells of the year, fewer crowds, and a deeper connection to the ocean. In this article, we’ll explore why winter is an exceptional time to surf in Southern California, the challenges surfers face during this season, and how to prepare for cold-water surfing in this iconic region.
Why Winter Is the Best Time to Surf in Southern California
1. Bigger Swells and Consistent Waves
One of the most appealing aspects of winter surfing in Southern California is the arrival of larger, more consistent swells. While summer is known for its smaller, more relaxed waves, winter brings powerful swells generated by storms in the North Pacific Ocean. These storms send huge, long-period swells southward, creating ideal conditions for experienced surfers. Winter swells tend to be more powerful and last longer, providing more opportunities for rides, and the waves tend to be more organized and consistent than in other seasons.
The biggest and best waves typically hit from December through February, with offshore winds making for clear, clean conditions. Popular surf spots like Malibu, Huntington Beach, and Trestles receive some of the best waves of the year. Whether you're a seasoned pro or an intermediate surfer, winter offers a playground of waves that are often too challenging or inaccessible during the summer months.
2. Fewer Crowds
While Southern California’s beaches can be packed in the warmer months, the winter season tends to be quieter. With cooler water temperatures and the chance of chilly weather, many casual surfers stay home, leaving the waves to the dedicated winter surf enthusiasts. This reduction in crowds means more space for each surfer to catch waves without worrying about overcrowded lineups or getting dropped in on.
Winter also brings a certain exclusivity to surf spots, especially in places like Malibu or Rincon, which are known for their world-class waves. The chance to experience these spots without the heavy crowds of summer can make winter surfing feel almost like a private experience.
3. More Seclusion and Scenic Beauty
Winter also provides a more serene and secluded atmosphere on the beaches. With fewer beachgoers and tourists around, you can enjoy the natural beauty of the coastline in a more peaceful setting. The sunsets in the winter months can be breathtaking, as cooler air and less humidity often lead to stunning colors as the sun dips below the Pacific Ocean.
Additionally, the cooler air makes for a more comfortable post-surf experience, as the usual hot sun that beats down in summer is replaced by a crisp, refreshing chill in the air. Winter also offers unique opportunities for beachcombing, with the possibility of spotting migrating whales or seals along the shore.
Challenges of Surfing in Winter
1. Cold Water Temperatures
The biggest challenge of winter surfing in Southern California is undoubtedly the cold water temperatures. While the Pacific Ocean off Southern California never dips below 50°F (10°C), during the winter months, water temperatures typically range from 55°F to 60°F (13°C to 16°C). This can feel incredibly chilly, especially when you’re in the water for extended periods.
For many surfers, wearing the right wetsuit is essential. A thick 4/3mm or 5/4mm wetsuit is recommended for winter surfing, paired with booties, gloves, and a hood to help retain warmth. While the wetsuit does a good job of insulating your body from the cold water, it still takes time for your body to acclimate to the lower temperatures. Surfers should also be aware of the increased risk of hypothermia in extreme conditions, so it’s important to know your limits and come out of the water if you start to feel too cold.
2. Stronger Currents and More Dangerous Conditions
Winter swells can bring more powerful waves, but they also bring stronger currents and more challenging conditions. Many surf spots become more dangerous in the winter, especially for beginners. Large waves, rip currents, and sudden shifts in swell direction can be difficult to navigate. Surfers must be especially cautious about their ability to handle challenging conditions, as winter surf can be more unpredictable than the mellow summer waves.
It’s always a good idea to check the surf forecast and tide charts before heading out, as winter storms and shifts in wind patterns can quickly change the conditions at your favorite break. Surfers should also be aware of local hazards, such as rocks, reefs, and kelp beds, which may be more prevalent during the winter months.
3. Limited Daylight Hours
Winter days are shorter, which means less daylight for surf sessions. If you’re used to long summer sessions stretching into the evening, the shorter winter days can feel limiting. Surfers may need to adjust their schedules to make the most of the hours of sunlight, which typically peak between 7:00 AM and 4:30 PM.
On the plus side, the lack of daylight also means fewer tourists crowding the beaches, making it easier to find parking and have the waves to yourself. Just be sure to plan your surf session accordingly so that you’re not stuck in the water after the sun has set, as colder temperatures can make for a tricky and uncomfortable post-surf experience.
How to Prepare for Winter Surfing in Southern California
1. Invest in a High-Quality Wetsuit
As mentioned earlier, a quality wetsuit is crucial for winter surfing. A 4/3mm wetsuit is typically sufficient for most winter conditions in Southern California, but for surfers who plan to surf during colder fronts or in more northern areas, a 5/4mm wetsuit may be necessary. Make sure your wetsuit fits snugly but isn’t too tight, as a well-fitting wetsuit traps warm water close to your body and allows it to slowly warm up with your body heat.
In addition to a wetsuit, don’t forget about accessories like gloves, booties, and a hood. These items are key to maintaining comfort and preventing numbness in your extremities. Many surfers also opt for thermal rash guards and linings for added warmth and protection.
2. Check the Forecast
Before heading out, always check the surf forecast, as conditions can change quickly in the winter months. Websites like Surfline, Magicseaweed, and local surf reports provide detailed insights into swell size, wind conditions, tides, and the overall surf forecast for your favorite spots. Pay attention to the direction and period of the swells, as this will tell you whether a particular break will be surfable or too dangerous.
3. Be Mindful of Ocean Conditions
Winter storms can bring hazardous conditions, including big waves, strong rip currents, and unpredictable water movement. Always be aware of your surroundings, especially if you're surfing at less familiar spots. If you’re new to winter surfing or have never experienced larger winter swells, consider hiring a local surf instructor or joining a surf group to get a better sense of how to handle these more intense conditions.
4. Stay Active and Warm Between Sessions
It’s easy to get cold when you’re waiting for waves, especially during the winter months. Be sure to keep your body moving between sessions, doing some light stretching or jogging along the beach to keep your circulation going. After your surf session, change out of your wetsuit quickly and into warm, dry clothes to avoid getting chilled.
Conclusion
Surfing in Southern California during the winter months offers a unique experience for surfers of all levels. With larger swells, fewer crowds, and an overall more serene atmosphere, winter can be one of the best times to ride the waves in this iconic region. However, surfers must be prepared for the challenges that come with colder water temperatures, stronger currents, and shorter days. By equipping yourself with the right gear, staying mindful of conditions, and embracing the beauty of winter waves, you’ll be able to enjoy the thrill of surfing in Southern California all year round. So, grab your wetsuit, check the forecast, and prepare to catch some of the best waves the season has to offer!
